From the wide avenue by the river, everyone can look up at the old citadel of Berat as they wander up and down in the evening Xiro. There are cafes, kiosks, benches and a green park for those who need a rest during this activity. At the far end of this promenade area is the Picture Gallery with work by local artists, and in addition, five landscape paintings by English artist Edward Lear, who spent much of his life travelling in these eastern Mediterranean lands. His sketches of Albania in the 1830s and 40s are a fascinating record of life in those times.
Also at the far end of the promenade is a collection of ancient buildings at the foot of the Rruga e Kalase, from which point you begin the long climb up the paved road through the ancient town, up to the enormous citadel on the hilltop. Berat is one of the oldest cities in Albania and it is extremely attractive, with the cascade of white Ottoman style houses, with gardens full of flowers and fruit trees as well as vines.
From the citadel, there is a splendid view of Mount Tomorri, a long massif most of it over 2,000 metres high.